Hadrian's Wall and Loch Lomond- Thursday, August 1, 2013

When we checked last night, we asked if here was a laundrette nearby because it's that time again.  They told us that the nearest one is about a half hours drive away, but that they could do it for us.  We thanked them and tipped the guy five pounds.  We found out this morning that the laundry was still being dried, so we went to McDonald's for breakfast, and stopped at a computer store for a bigger SD card for Julie's still camera (We figure this new one will last us the rest of the trip and then some, in spite of he many shots we're taking.). When we returned, the housekeeper was folding our laundry for us too.  We decided to tip her 10 because she had gotten stuck doing it from the guy last night.  She actually refused our tip, and only took it when we insisted.  She told us later that she had donated it to a charity. This particular chain has not been a favorite of ours because they've charged us extra for WiFi and parking at some them.  The staff at this one has changed our minds.

The wet morning dried up enough for us to go explore Hadrian's Wall.  This was the northernmost extent of the Roman Empire.  The Roman Emperor Hadrian ordered the wall built in 122 A.D. to protect his British frontier from the barbaric Celts in Scotland.  We were near the western end of the wall.  Following signs, the first portion that we came to overlooked a green valley of sheep, but we expect most of it does.  The ruins of the wall are only about waist high, and even lower in some places.  We later learned that the wall was originally about 15 feet high, but over the centuries, landowners and even churches used the wall's stone to build other buildings.  We saw the ruins of one of the turrets there that were originally built one per mile along the length of the wall.

From the first stop, we followed the wall in our car to Birdoswald Roman Fort, a larger area where a garrison of Roman soldiers would have been stationed.  The actual ruins are quite low to the ground here, but the outlines of several buildings can be distinctly seen.  One Victorian built a large castle-like house next to the ruins.  It is very wrong for the period, but does make for a dramatic backdrop for photos.  It's used a hostel now (Julie checked before we came, and the entire 32 beds have to be rented out, like a bus group might do).  We walked around the remaining perimeter walls of the fort, and right through a flock of sheep.  Emma really didn't like walking in that field because of all the sheep poop that she had to avoid.  A re-enactor dressed as a Roman soldier posed for a picture with us.  He complimented Scott's beard and said the Emperor Hadrian was the first to have a beard and popularized the beard throughout the Roman Empire.

The small town of Gilsland was nearby, and we stopped at its post office to send a package of things back.  Actually, the post office was just a few card tables set up in the town hall, but the woman there was helpful and we got some of our stuff sent on its way back.  We're really out in the country now.  

We left England and crossed into Scotland sometime after 1:00, and found a place for lunch with a true Scottish name- Mac Donald's.  From here, we called Grandpa Wright to wish him a happy birthday.  We continued up the road, through the city of Glasgow to Loch Lomond.   The clouds in the grey skies were quite low, sometimes covering the tops of the dark hills we were passing.   There seems to be more coniferous trees now.   The hills are still spotted with white sheep.

We arrived in Alexandria on the shores of Loch Lomond shortly after 4:00.  The information center had just closed, but we found that a nearby boat company, Sweeny's Cruises, had a one hour cruise of the loch that was leaving in 10 minutes.  We woke the girls up from their naps and hurried to catch the boat, the Astina.  It was a pleasant cruise out onto the water.  There were very few other people on the boat and we got seats right in the bow on the top deck.  From there we watched the "bonnie, bonnie banks of Loch Lomond" as we cruised out.  There were several large estates whose houses could be seen from the boat, though they all seemed to be being used as hotels or luxury apartments now.  The clouds were still hanging low, so we couldn't see the tops of the tallest hills on the shores of the loch.  The part of the loch we were in was about five miles across.  We went out to the largest island, Inchmurrin Island, where Lennox Castle once stood that Mary Queen of Scots once visited.  Then the boat made a u-turn to head back.  As it started making the turn, a light mist started to fall, and everyone headed down to the lower deck for the return trip.

When we got back to shore, we looked for our bed and breakfast.  We were a little surprised to find it on the other side of the river from where our cruise started.  We're in a very nice place this time, with a restaurant and tavern downstairs and several rooms upstairs.  We decided it was time to try Scottish food (even though "All of Scottish cuisine is based on a dare").  We started with garlic bread, but it came out looking like a pizza, according to Emma.  Julie ordered shepherd's pie, although what came was shank of lamb stew.  She said it was good, even though it wasn't quite what she was expecting.  Scott had three cheese and potato pie, which he also liked.  The girls each had half of a roasted chicken and chips (fries).   Anna said it was the best chicken she's ever had, and offered to help finish Emma's.  The whole plate slid off the table onto Anna's lap.

After dinner, we took a walk down the banks of the River Leven, which is directly by us, to the banks of Loch Lomond.  It was a pleasant stroll on a beautiful but overcast evening.  Twice, Julie and Scott danced to the music of "The bonnie, bonnie banks of Loch Lomond."  Anna and Emma waded into the loch.  Emma was carrying the umbrella that we bought in Liverpool when it was raining, even though its tip got bent when somebody slammed our trunk shut as we were leaving McDonald's today.  We walked out far enough to see what we think is Balloch Castle, and then strolled back.  It's been a really nice evening.    

In other news- We heard today that Snowden was granted asylum in Russia and Obama is mad about it.  It's probably a good thing that we didn't go to Russia this year.